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WOT Mustang Club :: View topic - Rear end build
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Rear end build
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SuperDan
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Joined: Sep 15, 2009
Posts: 4560
Location: Canetuck, N.C.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 11:05 am    Post subject: Rear end build Reply with quote

So I just got a spare 8.8 out of a 2001 GT. My plan is to build it as i go, 31 splines axles, 3.73s, aftermarker posi unit, c-clip eliminators, and so on. The problem is, i know nothing about the guts of a rear end. Any sugestions? Im thinking about running Mosur (spell check) axles, FRPP gears, and no idea on the other stuff.
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mustangfu
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Joined: Sep 24, 2009
Posts: 268
Location: Stafford, VA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://tinyurl.com/y28b6jg

...lol. But seriously, solid rear ends are easy to build, it really just comes down to what brands you're loyal to and how much money you want to spend. Kind of like superchargers, there are tons of them out there, they all make good power, it just depends on what brand you want to sticker your car with.
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America promised us freedom; Ford gave us the keys.

1967 Mustang (39,000 original miles) - SOLD
1968 Mustang (351W swap, ~400hp) - SOLD
1994 Mustang GT (5.0 that ruled my home town) - SOLD
1995 Mustang GT Conv. (54,000 original miles) -SOLD
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01GT
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Joined: Oct 12, 2008
Posts: 643

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most factory 3.27 to 3.73 changes you can use the same pinion shim...(.25 Shim 3.27 Gears)
Thickness of both the shim and the pinion Gear should 9.06 total...
And carrier shims keep them the same also...(use the factory carrier shims)
Between .008 and .0012 backlash...(side to side of the carrier)
Mine Is .009...
Zero out the pinion when tightening check the Wear pattern...
Do the check without the crush sleeve first...
Once the pattern is correct do it again with the crush sleeve...
I did this exact change and have never had a problem...
Trac lock rebuild...
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/rebuild_tractionlock.htm
Axle Rebuilds...
http://www.richmondgear.com/01instructions.html
http://www.usgear.com/ring__pinion_installation.htm
Hope this will help...
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SuperDan
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Joined: Sep 15, 2009
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Location: Canetuck, N.C.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanx 01GT. Im scared that this is gonna turn into another one of my expensive projects. Sad
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01GT
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Joined: Oct 12, 2008
Posts: 643

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 31 spline carrier...FMS-M-4204-F318 $260.00
31 spline Mosers MSR-A883153 $280.00
3.73 Gears FMS-M-4209-F373N $150.00
And i have a 8.8 Diff girdle MAC...$125.00
Standard Bearing kit...$125.00
Summit prices...
Yea It sure does add up...
I have done at least 30 Rev limiter slick launches...
I have a bearing press if you need some pressed on...
I live in Rocky Point down from Pauls Place...
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SuperDan
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Joined: Sep 15, 2009
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Location: Canetuck, N.C.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea you told me you lived over by C and B. Isnt there an Explorer factory 31 spline unit everybody is always hunting down?
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JDawg22
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Joined: Mar 21, 2010
Posts: 693
Location: Home

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 6:47 pm    Post subject: 3.90 gears Reply with quote

AM carries a 3.90 gear thats supposed to be really good. Kinda in btw the 373 & 410. I had frpp gears in my last o2 gt. 3.73. never had a problem. and a frpp alum. drive shaft. loved'em.
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01GT
Dangerous


Joined: Oct 12, 2008
Posts: 643

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SuperDan wrote:
yea you told me you lived over by C and B. Isnt there an Explorer factory 31 spline unit everybody is always hunting down?


Yup...
I have one but i chipped one of the spider gears...
If you get new spider gears for it i will let you get it for $60...
Still in perfect shape...
Spider gears might cost you $100 or less...
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SpeedJunky
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Joined: Jan 17, 2009
Posts: 1379

PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a good build man. I would look into 9 inch ends instead of c-clip eliminators though, c-clip elimins are known for leaking on street cars that go through the miles. Also, if you're gonna spend money on a good set of 31 spline axles, don't go with another LSD unit. Look into the Eaton True-Tracs or Lockers. I would get a girdle for a little extra protection too-Summit has a moser one that's $120 I think. Look forward to hearing what you go with.
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SuperDan
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 19, 2010 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ill talk with you a little more in deapth about that next time i see you Scott.

if i decide to go that route ill get up with ya Sandy.

A 3.90 gears a lil too much for me Jdogg. I think the 3.73 will best fit my needs.


Last edited by SuperDan on Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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SpeedJunky
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can attest that 4.10s is too much for centrifugals, trapping at 6300 rpms in fourth gear. 3.73s would be a good one IMO. Maybe tweak one higher or lower after a few track days if you need to.
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01GT
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Joined: Oct 12, 2008
Posts: 643

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SpeedJunky wrote:
Sounds like a good build man. I would look into 9 inch ends instead of c-clip eliminators though, c-clip elimins are known for leaking on street cars that go through the miles. Also, if you're gonna spend money on a good set of 31 spline axles, don't go with another LSD unit. Look into the Eaton True-Tracs or Lockers. I would get a girdle for a little extra protection too-Summit has a moser one that's $120 I think. Look forward to hearing what you go with.


I have seen many Eatons go south from 400hp cars...(3 to be exact)

Sandy
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holcombford
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Joined: Apr 19, 2009
Posts: 336

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put an Auburn in it...they have a warranty and the pro series is cheaper than the eaton and stronger as well. I would agree with putting the nine inch ends on the housing instead of the c-clip elims. I also would go with a girdle but I would go with a TA over one of the cheap ones like the mac or the moser...the castings arent that good and I have seen them crack. The thing about a rear end is that if you use good stuff and everything is setup properly you should not have to do it but once especially on a street car.
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SpeedJunky
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Joined: Jan 17, 2009
Posts: 1379

PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have heard of a couple instances where the true tracs have went bad, but they are designed for a dual purpose street/strip application, not to be beat on consistently hard at the drag strip.
As for the Ford Racing one, I would say that one is worse than the stock LSD for one wheel peels and inconsistent launches with M/T ET street radials.
Not an attack, just my opinion. I have never run the true trac but plan on buying one in a couple of weeks to build my 8.8. I have run the FRPP one and did not like it.
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SpeedJunky
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2010 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice Blake! I will be hitting you up for rear end build parts as well in a couple of weeks
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