Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 9:26 pm Post subject: My shortblock is done!
Got woken up by a call from Fastlane Motorsports and they said my shortblock is done. Too bad I'm still in Yuma, AZ for another 3 weeks. If you guys don't remember, here's what the short block consists of.
-Oliver billet rods
-CP 17cc pistons
-Kellog stroker crank
-Melling billet oil pump
-ARP hardware
All built in a iron block. I know, I know, you guys are going to say why didnt you get an aluminum block. I wasn't really concerned with the weight as much as the reliablitly and strength and the amount of abuse an iron block can withstand.
I'll be putting on the heads when i get back home. Anyone know how to degree cams? I'll definitely need some pointers. Also Chris, I might need your assistance in picking it up. I doubt the motor will fit in my car. LOL.
I just got done putting together my engine. I'm assuming by degree you mean pretty much install? Basic install is easy, lube it all up, put it in your block. You can use your cam gear to install the cam, something to hold onto, but only put a bolt or two very loosely into it. Take it back off once your done, I didn't have my gear on for installing, I just got messy. But then you loop your timing chain over the cam gear and get it around the crank gear. Then all you simply do is line up the dots when you put your cam gear on. There is a dot on your crank and the one on the cam, they should be facing each other. Make sure your dead on so you're not a tooth off when you put that timing chain on. It's not bad at all, easier to do then type out. _________________
It's a DOHC engine come to find out. Anyone know how to put those in? I don't know what the difference will be, SOHC's are easy, sure DOHC isn't too much different but never done them. _________________
Joined: Aug 17, 2008 Posts: 381 Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 12:42 pm Post subject: Re: My shortblock is done!
swervo wrote:
All built in a iron block. I know, I know, you guys are going to say why didnt you get an aluminum block. I wasn't really concerned with the weight as much as the reliablitly and strength and the amount of abuse an iron block can withstand.
.
Good choice. Teskid Block? I cant wait till you get it put together. I know Sean Hyland does a tutorial on degreeing 4 valves. You should check it out, says it takes him 5 hours and he's done it doezns of times!!! Have fun. _________________
Swervo, do you need someone to go and pick it up? I wouldn't mind going to help u pick it up. When will u be back? When will u want to do the swap? I would like to help out as much as I can just cause it is a learning experience for me as well. _________________
Joined: Oct 11, 2008 Posts: 18 Location: Norton MA
Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2008 11:46 pm Post subject:
swervo, degreeing the cam is not a must, but it will help you find the centerline and valve timing, along with what twinscrw said, for advancement an retarding, when you buy new cams, it will come with a cam card with all of its specs, if your reusing your orginal then straight up install would be the best till you find your sweet spot, i'm not totally sure someone correct me if im wrong, but if you get adjustable cam sprockets the will allow you to dial your cam easier, but im use to small block single cams, but i have some tools that could be useful to you if you need a hand, you know where im at give me a shout..later
FoxStang93= mike black '93 _________________ 1993 LX 5.0 stock long block, BBK headers, 1.7 Roller Rockers, BBK underdrive pulleys, Off-Road Hpipe, Explorer Intake, 65mm TB, 3:73 gears, Alum driveshaft, Pro5.0 shifter, King Cobra clutch, Moates tuning hardware/software
267hp of elagance
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